Do you remember that great "fake" Chinese food of your youth? Dim red lights, sticky sweet duck sauce, spare-ribs the bright red color of a fire-truck? Sam Sifton of The Times sure seems to and he went looking for it at the new east village american/chinese/hipster No. 1 Chinese.
Usually the overwroght prose in a short "diners notes" colum would prickle my sense of decorum, but really, how can you argue with statements on fake Chinese food (and perhaps even the meaning of life itself) like this; sit a Chinese restaurant tucked into a low storefront on a grimy stretch of highway in Portsmouth, N.H., and ask yourself: is it any good? The faithful will respond joyfully, without further question or prior knowledge, Yes. It is. Only those without faith, those without grace, would doubt this truth. And thus only the faithful are ever disappointed.
I really don't think you can.
Posted by thickeye at May 25, 2004 09:18 AM